I’m doing a project that involves some long 30" miters and after trying to make the cuts on standard cross cut sled realized that I’m probably best off making a dedicated larger miter sled with hold down toggle clamps. Is this something I could leave with the other sleds? Would love to have it available for others to use but wanted to check our policy for storing jigs/sleds.
There is getting to be a large collection of sleds already. I suspect because each of them has issues, so another was built. The problem with all of them is that the back fence cannot be adjusted. The sleds tend to not get treated well. If you want to build a sled, I would strongly suggest a design that allows it to be recalibrated to the tracks.
I also think that the sleds should be sorted, rebuilt, or trashed. Sleds are intended to make accurate cuts. If the sled cannot be calibrated, you just get repeatable poor cuts.
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Appreciate the input! I don’t want to add to the clutter if I can help it.
I think I’m gonna go ahead and make the sled tonight (with adjustable back fence). If it ends up feeling like it adds value, I’ll consider leaving it- otherwise I’ll just use it for this project and then break it down for future jigs.
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If each of the sleds has it’s own purpose, then it’s a matter of finding a better way to organize. If they’re redundant, then they should be sorted and thinned out. A vertical storage rack would be better than the flat storage table that is currently there. They just stack on each other, fall off, etc… None of that is good for the longevity of a sled.
Sounds like a new project…
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Vertical storage for the win
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I’m picturing a giant Rolodex of sleds 
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…or maybe the door storage from Monsters Inc
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Why not just do away with all those sleds and make this one?
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Yaaas! I like the idea of having one or two max well designed, adjustable sleds.
I just took the Woodshop safety with Josh last night, and he mentioned that there was an effort taking place to replace the old beat up sleds with new ones. This seems to be the only thread I can find regarding that effort. Perhaps there’s an underground movement?
I’ve recently built a couple for my home shop, and I’d be happy to make one for Asmbly. Since I’m brand new here I don’t really know the right way to approach said task. I’m going to start making one regardless, as a table saw without one is only 1/2 capable for me. If and where it stays at the shop is up for discussion.
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Thanks @jiggliemon! I think the discussions have largely been in person amongst the Stewards Team. @cfstaley and @CLeininger would be good people to sync up with this (middle and right respectively in the last photo on this thread, which is the other place sleds were briefly mentioned recently). Thank you for helping with this!
We just replaced the center cast iron top and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated the saw. None of the existing sleds are calibrated to the new top and so they either need to be calibrated or, more likely, replaced, and so your timing is perfect. While it would be nice to have an extremely fancy sled like the one designed by Stumpy Nubs, a very simple cross cut sled that is dialed in is better than nothing (and in some ways better). Feel free to hit me up if you want to brainstorm design ideas. I can also meet on Saturday after my turning class ends at noon.
ps- I recommend the Matchfit miter bars. It’s easier to adjust the miter bars from the top vs moving the fence.
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Here’s the sleds I made for my saw.
It’s a large sled that’s pretty basic, and a small sled with t-track and is a little more “versatile.” I use the smaller one 90% of the time, and have the larger one for panels, really (I’m building a kitchen and needed to fit wider sheet goods).
I’m with you in not wanting to create an erector-sled. The only features I’m personally after is a replaceable waste insert on the bed and fence to keep some semblance of a zero clearance (as well as angle/miter cuts). And a few tracks for hold down clamps and stop blocks.
Being that it’s a saw stop the fence should be MDF + micro jig or T-Slot.
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I have a Matchfit / Microjig sled that I tuned up today for the new table. Wow, what a difference. It was the microjig tracks that told me two years ago that the miter slots in the table were off. Today - perfection. My stock jammed on an poorly adjusted insert. Shut the saw down, reset, and reran the piece. You can see the difference in the cut, but only as a burnish. Not as an additional edge. You don’t have to think about holding the sled this way or that. It just works.
That said, the outfeed table needs a nudge to the right…
I like the idea of replaceable inserts. T track is versatile, but Matchfit has no follow on costs once you get the router bit. However, the clamps are all twist handles. They don’t yet have any quick release options.
We have some Match fit that came with the drill press, and I will be building the MFT table using Matchfit and 18mm dog holes. So standardizing on Matchfit would be helpful. Less aluminum around the Sawstop is also less stressful.
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Those sleds look well made. I say go for it!
If you use t track, make sure there is an ample gap in the middle to avoid any chance of hitting it with the blade and setting off the brake.
I made a sled with removable 1/4" mdf inserts along the blade and fence. They were tapered on the sides so they could slide in and stay in place without the need for screws.
How do you like the katz moses stop block?
I have an unopened pair of MatchFit miter bars that I’ll contribute to the cause.
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I drew up some adjustable zero clearance inserts for the new table saw sled.
Could I get someone to cut several of them on a laser machine?
Additionally, I don’t know how to attach a file to this discord. Perhaps it’s not permitted.
What material do you want them cut out of? Is it on hand?
1/4” MDF.
If it’s not available, I have some I can bring by pretty soon.
If by zero clearance inserts, you mean the rails for the miter slots in the table, that’s what the match fit rails do. They are adjustable for zero clearance.