I was taught the same way, but I think that I’m going to start using the bed as the reference point for through cuts.
@jamesfreeman @morrism14 Next time y’all (or someone else) plans to replace the spoilboard, can y’all post about it? In addition to CJ, i’ve heard a few folks who would be interested in seeing how it is done and lend a hand
Nothing will save you if your bit is slipping. Once the bit moves up or down, your z reference is meaningless.
if your bit is slipping, that means either you didn’t tighten the collet enough, or the collet is damaged, most likely because somebody before you overtightened it. That implied dilemma is why I have my own collets.
Either bed or material coordinates will work if you measure the z-reference accurately and set your parameters correctly. I just think it’s much less likely you’ll make a mistake with those parameters using bed coordinates.
I know z+0.02 is what is taught, and I’ve always thought that that is excessive. It means you’ll always cut into the spoil-board by that much, which I consider tolerable, but not ideal.
I pride myself on rarely even marking the spoil-board. But I usually do smaller pieces using the tape & glue hold down method, both of which make that easier.
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The depth you may need is also partially dependant to the size of the workpeice being cut, and variance of the spoilboard over that distance. If you are not traversing the entire length of the bed, you definately don’t need .020. I usually do smaller pieces, and .005 is sufficient for that.
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Turns out the pegboard — kinda — works.
Frank pointed out that one side is slick, so I assume that has a lot to do with it.
Also — .75025 was the exact distance for my piece of wood. I cut multiple tiny tool paths in a corner and ran them one at a time to be sure, the. Stopped when it was almost there and added the extra .00005. Worked great.
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