There’s a big warning label on the Sawstop cartridge that says there should be a 2mm gap between the cartridge and the blade. However, the gap looks to be less than 1mm – I couldn’t get my calipers in there to measure exactly. Is this potentially a problem?
The dado cartridge has what appears to be the correct 2mm gap.
The problem would be that an extremely close gap could mean the blade could touch the aluminum brake pawl and fire it.
Too much gap and it’s possible it won’t brake as quickly and effectively, as there is more distance to cover. Allowing an additional 45 deg turn of the blade before stopping is a big deal if a finger is involved.
Sorry Danny but too much gap gives an error code and prevents the machine from running. Saw Stop was designed to be safe and to be used with confidence in its advertised safety features. As you mentioned too much gap may prevent the cartridge from engaging and that would be very unsafe. A reminder one of the steps when changing a blade is to check the gap between cartridge and blade. There are very good videos and instructions on you tube and Saw Stop site. There is a big YELLOW hex head screw on the left of the blade that is used for the adjustement. Also on the left of the on/off switch box there is a troubleshoot guide of what the red/green light means with a solution in case you dont get a green light when switching the machine on.
Ah, I didn’t realize that was part of the procedure – the video I watched to learn how to change the cartridge didn’t mention it.
For reference, here’s the official video on checking and changing the spacing: SawStop Service Tip: Adjusting the Blade Brake Spacing on your CNS/PCS/ICS table saw. - YouTube
The spacing tool the video shows – is that in the cupboards near the table saw?
I don’t think I have ever seen the yellow spacing tool you’re referring to at ASMBLY at any one time. But Saw Stop also gives a nickel as an alternate tool for to the spacing procedure which happens to be the same thickness as the tool. In a way a nickel is easier to move around in the enclosed area but is also easier to lose. You could also use a feeler gauge set to seventy thousands of an inch (.070). I am not sure which video you are talking about or referencing to above. My knowledge comes from both experience, common sense and I actually took the time to read the manual that came with the machine when I first used it. I believe I read the “check the gap between cartridge and blade every time you install a blade” in the manual. Common sense: if you use a dado blade set, obviously you go from a 10" blade down to 8," in this case you most definitely need the dado cartridge and make up the gap. Also, you have regular kerf blade that are thicker and some slightly different in the design of the cutting teeth which may be just a tad longer than the thin kerf blades. knowing how the technology works just makes sense to me to check that gap every time. Although the cartridge does not move, you never know if it was installed right by the person before you, if you bumped or dislodged the cartridge, or if you moved the adjusting screw in the process of changing the blade. So that’s why I say check the gap every time. Whatever you do, NEVER have the cartridge and the blade touching each other (includes if you have the nickel or feeler gauge in between blade and cartridge) when electricity/power gets turned on. This will activate the cartridge! I am glad you took the time to read the instructions and get yourself educated without activating a cartridge :)!
The other variable in play is that some brands’ “10 inch” circular saw blades are actually 250mm in diameter instead of 254. That 2mm difference in radius is definitely enough to require brake adjustment when switching blades.