New Bandsaw arrives next week!

We’re upgrading part of our bandsaw offering. The Grizzly is being replaced with an even larger Grizzly. The new saw will be a Grizzly G0569 - a monster. 7.5HP, 24 inch width max cut, and 16 1/4 max height cut, foot brake.

The old saw has provided many years of service, but is difficult to keep tuned. It has numerous modifications as part of it’s life extension efforts. It’s not a good saw for a makerspace with hundreds of users. The current Grizzly has been our main re-saw tool. The new Grizzly will be exclusively for re-sawing, and will have a 1" blade. It should provide a whole different (and better) cutting experience.

The new saw arrives next week, and will take a few days to get set up and tuned. I’ll post again when it’s operational.


Does that fence have some way to attach an additional/sacrificial fence board? Seems a lil short for re-sawing tall boards

Good question. The current saw has an aftermarket fence that we installed. I plan on moving that over.

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I use these at home on mine, I just make the fence out of half inch mdf.

We also have the MatchFit clamps that are part of the adjustable MDF drill press table insert. I have a MatchFit router bit, and can make an extra fence, just like what you recommend, @griff0527 . Actually, while I’m at it, a tablesaw fence crosscut offset block would also be helpful.

I have a few of those Rockler clamps, I use them all the time. Looking forward to the new Bandsaw :slight_smile:

I could never resaw with any confidence on the current Grizzly – the blade would inevitably and badly drift, and I’d end up with two severe wedges rather than mostly-flat boards. Is it too naive of me to think it was the tool’s fault and not just my mediocre bandsaw skills? I don’t mind taking a remedial resawing class if that’s what it takes.


Resawing some thicker boards I’ve had laying around is high up on my priority list. Looking forward to checking out the new saw sometime!

@Branislav I don’t think that it’s you. As with many tools, in an expert’s hands, it may perform better. But that tool definitely does not hold position or settings any more. That’s what I’m referring to when it’s not good for a makerspace. Idiosyncratic equipment is not helpful. 3 years ago, I got some decent panels cut. Not perfect, but workable. In the last year, wedges, just like you.

This saw will drive a 1" blade without a problem. A 1" blade will track better. Cast iron wheels for more mass and stability (hence the foot brake, or it would never stop).

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Hi Charlie, can I ask what the plan is for the current Grizzly? I purchased a blade for resawing and have used it exactly twice in the month I’ve had it, and the length is not compatible with any of the other bandsaws at the space as far as I know, at least not without re-welding. If the G0513 is being passed on to someone rather than the big dust collector in the sky I’d be happy to offer them the blade.

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We haven’t decided, but selling it is probably the path. Determining the value is yet to be done. If you want to add that blade to it, that’s great. FWIW, we will be keeping Timber Wolf 3TPI / 1 inch blades on the new saw.

It’s here, and uncrated. It needs to be lifted onto the mobile platform, and 3 phase power needs to be run. The old fence will not transfer. The new fence is cast iron, and beefy.

It’s Match-Fit jig day today. I cut an 8" fence that will clamp onto the existing fence with two Match Fit clamps. The clamps live in a drawer by the miter saw.


Might be a silly question, but will this be sufficient for cutting large diameter oak tree pieces? Looking to make several 1/2" to 1" slices for laser etching custom designs. I have two giant logs that are of course super dense and heavy. I’ll have to cut them down into smaller logs with a chainsaw in order to transport them to the shop.

You’ll need some type of fixture for that, but other than a true mill, this saw is ideal for large logs, . It has the power and depth to accommodate. Lots of info on the web for getting that done.

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Some type of fixture? I figured I would use my chainsaw to cut them into smaller pieces that I can handle. Then use the bandsaw to cut the “slices”.

Your first cut is a flat. You need to put the log into a fixture that holds it steady as you pass it through on that first cut. Once you have a flat, you turn the log and can run it through the saw. Even there, you might need a fixture depending on the shape of the log. You want the cut to track to the fence. If the log is trying to roll around, you’ll be in trouble.

Some examples.
I strongly suggest some significant research. It appears that you may not have any familiarity with running a log on a bandsaw.


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…And this might be super obvious to you guys… but it wasn’t to me the first time I milled something myself… if you don’t “end coat” the boards with something Quickly after cutting it… it’ll start cracking like crazy and you may or may not cry the next day depending how hard you worked lugging it around and cutting it.

Random quote from the internet: “Lumber dries several times faster from the ends of a board than from the surface or edges. As a result, wide boards often check severely. This checking can be reduced by end coating. Commercial end coatings are available, but it may be easier to use readily available materials when dealing with small quantities of lumber. Aluminum paint in a spar varnish base or asphalt roofing cement will work well. This end coating can be applied to the lumber or even to logs before they are cut.”

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Yep. Major reason why cookies crack (round cross sections). Sometimes they’ll be painted or coated with something on the faces to let them dry slowly.

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Charlie, thanks! Yes indeed, I will study up on this before heading out there. I definitely want to make sure everything is safe as possible. The photo depictions you included are about the size of the logs I have- perhaps a bit smaller in diameter, but close enough. Maybe I can time this so that you’re there at the same time? It’ll be awhile however, probably around July.