Masking tape, superglue & 304 stainless steel sheet on Tormach

Two 2mm brake rotors for a scooter. For a thin part like this, it’s better just to use an online laser cutting service. I forgot I could do that, and I didn’t want to wait five days to get the parts delivered. I had a bunch of AlTiN 3.5mm carbide endmills, and I had been getting good results with the Fusion 360 adaptive toolpath:


I faced some challenges with the workholding. First the glue bond failed between the two layers of tape. Next, I tried blue masking tape. I thought the superglue would soak into the surface and provide a stronger bond. But the masking tape didn’t stick to the part, and it eventually came loose.

There are two NYC CNC videos on the superglue + tape method. There are some essential tricks. First, you have to burnish the masking tape by pressing a dowel over it. Second, you have to apply clamping force while the superglue dries – it’s not effective just to push down on it by hand. That information from the videos gave me a good starting point and substantially improved the holding power.


The next day, I was better prepared. I broke two endmills in short order, because I was trying to leave a small amount of material on the bottom. (0.02”) The masking tape acted like a spring and kept the metal pressed against the endmill, generating heat. When I went back to a full-depth op there were no surprises. Actually, the workholding worked a bit too well. Now I have to grab a heat gun and separate my parts from the aluminum block! (I ran out of time before I could machine the slots, but that’s ok – they were just for looks anyway.)

T-304 is the hardest material I’ve machined, and sheet metal has some additional challenges due to the springiness. By doing this, I gained more confidence with this workholding strategy, and I have a good starting point for making other parts in the future. What do you think? Would you use this workholding method to machine sheet metal on the Tormach?

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That’s exactly what I would do if I had to make only a couple of them. It looks like maybe you have drilled and tapped holes in the block underneath. I would machine those bolt holes first and get bolts holding it down as soon as possible. Even stainless that thin will hold down pretty well with 3 bolts. Also I would machine the vent slots second, leaving the inner and outer contours for last, as I’d want maximum surface area for the superglue for as long as possible.

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Very cool. I was thinking of making some disc rotors for my mountain bike when the laser is up and running. FYI rotors are usually made with 410 stainless.

On the first side, I drilled and tapped those holes in the aluminum block before I put the part down. Then I bored the holes through the part. On the second side, I didn’t use the screws. On a part of this shape, the superglue has sufficient holding power.

Thanks. Good to know about the material. Based on some info I read on the FSAE forums, I was originally planning to use 1018 mild steel. 304 has the advantageous combination of high cheapness and high shininess, and it should work well enough in this not-very-demanding application :P.