Main Woodshop Dust Collector Down

Issue type: Equipment Problem
Area: Woodshop
Equipment: Laguna TFlux 5 Main Shop Dust Collector
Summary: Not powering on
Additional Info: Breaker was tripped. Not powering on after breaker reset, neither through machine operation nor turning to “on” position.

Report generated from a filing. This report has also been sent to Asmbly staff, leadership, and space leads with any contact info that was provided. Provide additional photos or resources here to help. When the problem is resolved, ensure it is marked.

Double checking… was the yellow iVac box set to “auto” and not “off”?

Just got off the phone with @Glory2God .

The breaker is fine, the iVac switch which is fine, other tools are working just fine, no funny smells or anything like that. So it really is just the dust collector.

For now, do not run any power tools!

Last time I saw something like this, a ground wire was disconnected behind the control panel.

I believe there is another issue similar to this Maybe a week later that @atwatsoniii helped troubleshoot.

I am away from town today, if anyone is around that is able to open up that control panel and check the wires, that would be greatly appreciated.

Without the dust collector running, we cannot have most of the power tools running. Specifically the ones connected to the duct collector. Having a bunch of dust pile up without the main unit running will effectively cause a much larger problem later.

Yes…set to auto and tried setting to it ON but nothing worked

A member has been trying to troubleshoot this today but it is still not up yet .

Please refrain from using any tool that should be hooked up to the main dust collector. Clogs in the line will make for a worse situation later.

Thank you for your patience.

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A solution has been jury-rigged for now, so all the woodshop is back online. But please check that the dust collector is still running when using a machine that requires it.

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There are still issues happening.

If the tool requires a dust collector, No tool use without the dust collector on.

I’m sorry for the inconvenience. A few member have used tools anyway today and that is not appropriate.

If the DC is hooked up to the tool and the tool is not on, do not use the tool.

Please be patient and we’ll work a solution as soon as we’re able. If you’d like to help please do.

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Someone has started working on this.

Panel L3 circuit 9 should be relabeled to help debug in the future.

If the router circuit is shut off all of the blast gates stay in the state they were in when this circuit was killed.

Is that blast gate 6 rather than 9?

You’re correct I was looking at the number upside down

This is still an issue.

As well as the red light may not be functioning properly. The dust collector and the filter were completely full this afternoon.

If you are going to use the wood shop, always be mindful of the dust collector. There are little windows on it that can help you see if something is healing up. That goes for the dust collector as well as the filter.

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The dust collector control board (which performs all the dust collector’s features, eg stopping when full or turning the light on) is not known to be working or not right now as I couldn’t find a way to get it, or a power supply, to control the contactor (what connects power to the motor). The contactor a1 and a2 phases tested at approximately 570 ohms while disconnected from a circuit, which is an order of magnitude higher than normal so I suspect it’s involved with the problem. I submitted a purchase request for a replacement but would appreciate a double check from anyone more familiar: McMaster-Carr

I’d welcome input on things to test, until this is resolved the dust collector is unfortunately not in an easy to use state.

The only I could get it to work for classes the next day was to wire the motor direct to the breaker. What this means, however, is that none of the other features work other than the motor spinning. If the dust bin is full, it’s just going to keep on spinning, so it’s very important to clear that out often until a solution is found. It also won’t make that rumbling noise every hour that shakes the filter to clean it.

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Are you certain the coil voltage is 24V ? The original one in the picture seems to be rated for 24-575 VAC.

Good point, I assumed that was a minimum with a high maximum like this part had, but it’s worth checking those details. I’ll be there tomorrow a bit after noon to wire the board back up and try to read some voltages.

I know you all are technical and all that, and I hate to get elementary, but have you checked the fuses? Some fuses are hidden inside holders like the gray toggle switch in the photo above. If you happen to need them, there are some in the Stewart’s closet (middle cabinet) and in the small cnc blue toolboxes.

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While I did test the fuse in the photo (functional), it’s also easy to miss things like that so thanks for asking! Once the contactor arrives I think it makes sense to disconnect the cabinet properly from the machine (which shouldn’t require more than a few minutes of downtime, as the motor is running without brains currently) so it can be more fully examined. The wiring is well labeled on most things, to their credit.

I had something (positive!) come up earlier which kept me from heading in, but I’ll be there tomorrow and welcome any help or questions.

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Contactor was installed today, which unfortunately wasn’t the sole issue. I disconnected the cabinet from the machine (documented the connections for the front panel and sensors, it’s in the cardboard box with the old contactor) and took it into electronics.

Testing components on the bench is much easier than doing it inside a machine so hopefully we’ll know more soon. One interesting thing that changed when installing the contactor was that the fuse is now blown after turning the yellow box switch to on. I heard a pop when turning the switch to on for the first time, but assumed it was just the contactor.

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Turns out, working on this in a quiet cool environment instead of inside the machine was a big help! It’s working normally again, I was able to observe it remotely turn on, turn off due to inactivity, and clean it’s filter.

The contactor ended up being fine, I incorrectly thought it was bad due to it’s incorrect label, so we’re calling it a draw and I’m leaving it in there. I blew a fuse in the process of installing the new contactor, which was replaced with an undersized one which is fine for now but should get replaced with a 32a. Old one is in the box on the machine. A suspicious crimp between the relay board and the contactor coils was cut off and redone. That same wire also powered the internal 24v DC power supply, which now works properly.

I’m not sure if the red light or full dust bin sensor is working since I wasn’t able to observe those happen, but they’re hooked up as they used to be so hopefully they do!

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Thank you @Kenneth for all the hard diagnostic work and bring the DC back to life. :clap:t2::clap:t2:

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