+1 on Polycam, for what it’s worth. I used the photogrammetry setting extensively on a large outdoor sculpture, to make 3d models of the metal frame in order to get a more precise fit on the acrylic panels that I laser cut at Asmbly. It was well worth the yearly fee for unlimited uploads – great results and quick turnaround. Some advice if you go that route:
- Limit the amount of background to what you’re scanning – if you can do it in a room with bare walls or even put some solid colored panels around it, the software will be less likely to pick up artifacts of the environment. This might not be as essential for a small, solid item but for things with holes in them it definitely helps.
- If you need the sizing to be precise as I did, put a ruler next to the item you’re scanning. That way the ruler will be part of the generated model, and you can resize it in your software to be correct – Polycam would usually be close, but not 100% accurate to reality.
- Take your time, start with a pan around the whole object that keeps it all in the frame, and then get some closeups. Make sure you get it from all angles!
- I always used the “raw” detail level when uploading as it seemed to get the closest to the actual shapes in the real object.
If you end up using it and have any issues gimme a shout!