You’ve probably seen me around because I’ve been creating a this table for 2 months now and are at the space often. Thought I’d start showing my progress to better document my issues.
Right now I’m trying to decide how to attach the top 4 boards so that they are removable so you can store stuff under them. Original idea was to use invisible cabinet hinges, but after prototyping the idea, it simply wont work (i mean i could use more expensive 170 degree hinges with short profiles, but i’ve already tried 2 different hinges, and it just adds more complexity + failure points)
Current plan to cut this cylinder part in half to create 2 pegs with square bases that the tops will slot on to. Going to have all the pegs up against this internal wall to give the wood space to expand. Will probably use 3 or 4 pegs total for each of the 4 top pieces.
There’s TONS of evidence on the table of my failures, so if you want to know more about why you see a certain thing or learn from me, just ask. Here or in person.
Awesome! I actually wana make a business making/selling these. Gota finish this one first though, since i want to use it as an example of my work for people.
Also a board gamer, and have a friend whose table has been under consideration for a while. Let me know if you need some market research!
It looks great, and that walnut will really shine through once you have some finish on it
Is the intent to play with the edge pieces removed, then cover them up? Or just access them for storage while not playing? What about water/spill ingress between the pieces of wood?
I am a big fan of embedded magnets for alignment and just a little bit of hold without needing much mechanical hardware. Maybe magnets in the miters would hold the boards against each other?
Anyway, /subscribe to this thread, please show off your updates!
The top sits on half of the interior wall. The other half is for the inside cover tiles to sit on. So to hinge open the top piece has to hinge up and back to clear the interior wall it sits on. I also only have 2” of space on the inside for the hinges to attach to.
Thanks! I curious about that market research. Could you dm me about it?
edge peice removal is just for storage. they’ll stay on when people play. I didnt think about water spillage for this table, but my design for the next one changes where the internal wall sits which will prevent spills through that gap. But i dont know yet how ill prevent spills though the miter gap. For the gaps between the interior top pieces (which i havnt made yet) i plan to use gaskets, or just ignore it for this table, since its already taken me so long
I thought of this much more custom than off the shelf idea for hinging and latching the tops as well. Would have to address the interference from the miters on the ends though in the open position.
it would take some 3d modeling to work this out, but the gear hinge should be able to do that.
there are variables to work out- in addition to diameters and spacing, you have freedom to set the door side gear’s location and wrap the moving lid to wherever they need to be
like if you mount the door gear directly below the fixed one- call that six o’clock- it will swing right and up as it rotate counterclockwise from that picture’s perspective
