High temp printing, ABS or better

I’m a member who has 3D printing experience but has not used the 3D printers at ASMBLY:

Who has experience with high temp filaments on ASMBLY machines and how did it go?

There are parts I can’t currently print at home because the material cools too quickly and the part warps; my machine is not enclosed.

I haven’t printed ABS, but I spent $60 on a tent for my Creality. Not only is it a general improvement in print quality, but I feel WAY safer letting it run overnight and when no one’s home because it’s fire resistant. It does add like another foot to its footprint. It’s a lot of improvement for $60!

I have printed abs on the on the Polyprinter. It is enclosed and I had to bump the temp few degrees up or down depending on the model thickness. @Devmani is our resident expert. I would print at the nozzle temp specified by the manufacturer.

The Prusas handle up to 285 degrees, but they don’t have hardened steel nozzles, so composite filaments are a no-go. Here is the material guide for those printers. If you are looking to use the polyprinter at the space (which is ABS only), you would need to speak to @EricP for more instruction on the KISS slicer outside of my ability to show how to upload, slice a file, and put the g-code into Pronterface.

The Polyprinter uses a specially written kiss slicer for that machine. The Polyprinter is connected via usb. It might be connected to octoprint now. The printer also has it’s own print control software. The good news is it has an enclosure and filter for the abs.

It’s on a connected laptop outside of cotoprint. That slicer is the most unintuitive slicer I’ve ever used on a 3d printer.


I bought hardened steel nozzles for my Prusas and they’re cheap.
Can you think of why we wouldn’t want those by default?
There may be a reason but I can’t think of it.

High Temperature A2 Hardened Tool Steel MK8 Nozzles Compatible with 1.75mm Prusa i3 3D Printer (0.6mm) https://a.co/d/4J1J8by

Typically people have to remember to change their slicer settings to adjust for the heat increase and nozzle size if we move to .6 (which we will once the new version of prusa slicer releases)

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For consistent layer adhesion I designed and built this enclosure for a couple Prusas. I later added cameras and a smoke-detector-auto-shutoff feature. If you’d like my Vcarve files for the enclosure then let me know. The link to the smoke detector hack is below.

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Yea this may be something of great value as we explore new enclosures in the future.

Another option is the official Prusa enclosure.
I have a friend who just finished assembling his.
Below is a picture and commentary from him.

Finally got my printer enclosure from Prusa. It’s awesome.

Printed and installed the enclosure accessory handles.

Still waiting on led lighting and quick disconnect system.
Back ordered for another couple months. I know.
Hard to believe PRUSA has a back log [:rofl:]

The power supply is now relocated outside the enclosure. You have to turn these four little buttons and then pull the power supply off and inside in order to pull the printer out of the enclosure. One of the options is a quick disconnect. That way you just pull the plug inside and the printer just slides out leaving the power supply behind. Much easier for any printer maintenance.

This enclosure really does an excellent job at maintaining the temperature. I did a couple 20+ hour prints in it and the stability is outstanding. Both temperature and humidity. I know there are some negative comments on the thickness of the plexiglass but I think Prusa did an outstanding job on this enclosure.

I’m trying to avoid building or buying an enclosure in the near future.
I’m looking for a better ABS printing environment to facilitate building a Voron printer to replace my Ender 5.

A Voron enclosure is only like 135 dollars for the panels, or you could take the bis laser class and cut your own for even cheaper. But enclosing the printer is the best way to ensure that your ABS print doesn’t warp while printing your object.

But to come back to your question. I’ve printed ABS on the Prusa printers with no issues and printed on the polyprinter with no problems. The big difference is that the Polyprinter uses a different slicer (KISS slicer), prints very fast, and you can only use Polyprinter ABS.

Is there a rule that the Polyprinter only gets Polyprinter filament?

Yup, @EricP and I decided on that after users had issues with other brands of abs filament.

Oops. I forgot. I run Hatchbox abs through mine