I have a cast aluminum engine case that I’m repurposing and I want to hollow it out as much as possible. One interior section that I need to remove is this 1" thick, 3" tall floating brace that spans the width of the case. However, there isn’t a lot of clearance to make the cut. The case is only 4.5" wide and 6.5" long and the brace is about 3" below the opening of the case. (I would include a picture but since I’m a new member, discourse is not allowing me to). Think of a box with one open face and a brace that’s inside going across the middle.
What’s the best way to cut this brace out?
There doesn’t seem to be enough clearance for the EvoSaw 380’s 15" blade. Using an angle grinder with a special aluminum blade seemed like a good idea but with the guard on the blade, it doesn’t seem like I’d be able to get the cut flush up against the side of the case (and the 5" blade I’m guessing isn’t a good fit for such a thick cut).
Is there a non-milling option to achieve this cut?
I doubt you are going to get a flush surface (which seems to be what you want) all in one go. You couldn’t even do that on the mill, unless you have an end mill with a 4” cutting length!
I agree with Al that a reciprocating saw with an appropriate blade would get you there fastest. But Asmbly doesn’t have one; you’d have to borrow or otherwise obtain one.
Two steps with an angle grinder would otherwise be your best bet. Note that the guard can be removed temporally. We absolutely do not recommend this unless it is necessary — but sometimes it is. You’d use a metal cutting disc to sever it and remove as much as possible. We do provide cheap consumable cutting discs, or you can get a nicer one of your own.
However you cut it, to get it really flush you will have to grind the rest off with a grinding disc or flap disc on the angle grinder. Note that we are no longer providing grinding discs. (This is actually a brand new policy I was going to announce shortly.)
We also have a handheld belt sander that could help remove material; we are still providing belts for that.
Thanks for the advice! I forgot that the engine case opens up on the bottom as well so I should be able to go at the brace from both sides. I’ll try (carefully) with a grinder first and then get a reciprocating saw if needed.
I think I’ll get a Weiler 58200 Tiger Aluminum Cutting Wheel that’s specially made for aluminum so the wheel doesn’t gum up while cutting.
Hmm, looks like that Weiler wheel is only for type 1 guards and the DeWalt grinders in the metal shop have type 27 guards installed. I need the 58206 model instead.