i’m looking to pay someone to hold my hand and import some parts into the bambu labs machine so i can get a jig together for sale online.
basically i’d been making it in HP PA12 but it’s too expensive and i just need someone that can help me slow down long enough to learn how to get these parts into the bambu labs machines and then at some point i need to do a fit up and slightly modify the size of the parts and so this again.
once i get this jig together i would like to move onto some complicated mathematical model parts and puzzles.
so it’s very possible it’s a very small ongoing gig.
PLUSES are a familiarity with machine tools, familiarity with motorcycles, familiarity with thousandths of an inch and/or having a small print farm at home.
if any of this sounds interesting to you i’d love to talk.
i’ll post a pic of the parts in the next post if the forum allows this.
Hey @chertok , I am one of our 3DP stewards, with some (free) advice for you! I don’t really have time to take on a paid gig of some kind, but I’m happy to share printing advice. If it unblocks you, feel free to make a donation to Asmbly.
Dimensional stability. For consistent results and dimensions between printing and a cooled, usable part, a fiber-filled filament is your best bet. You will still have to calibrate the filament against test prints (and maybe your first few actual prints).
Zephyrus! We have a Bambu P1S set up for these materials: BambuLab P1S/Zephyrus - Asmbly Wiki . Specifically, we can go as high as PPA-CF at ~$55/kg. For this application, you might get away with ABS-GF or even PETG-CF or GF, which I frequently see on sale at ~$16/kg. Dimensions and durability are needed.
Wear. For a tight-fitting drill guide with hand tools, you will experience some wear on the key dimensional surfaces from the side of the twist drill. That can result in tiny carbon fiber, glass fiber, or plastic shards. If you intend to reuse the plastic part, accuracy will suffer over time. Are there off-the-shelf bronze bushings of the correct ID that could be press-fit or shrink-fit or heat-set into the plastic part? You can make the OD of the plastic whatever you want it to be!
Alignment. Using a thermoplastic to set the alignment of metal parts has one advantage - a heat differential. If you have a reference engine or machined set of studs, you could print a part in PETG, press in bronze bushings, mount it to the reference with all screws intended, then: heat the plastic as a whole to it’s glass transition temp again and let it cool in place. This can stress-relieve the part in situ and it will adapt to the ‘mounted’ state as it’s lowest-stress state. This temperature varies by material, and is lowest (easiest) with PETG. Other materials will induce much more metal expansion at the required temperatures. I still wouldn’t go to PLA - shipping temperatures can warp that one.
Height. Assuming it doesn’t matter too much, but try to target a multiple of 0.2mm in the overall height of the part. That’s a multiple of the default layer size, so it’s much more likely to be accurately produced at that height.
Good luck! I love seeing printing and automotive stuff together!
